The daily rituals of a small life.

Live together · Daily careAbout 16 minutesReviewed 7 November 2026

Feeding, walking, grooming and keeping warm sound simple. With a dog this small, getting each one right is what keeps them well, and the margins are narrow: a biscuit is a meal, and a cold wind is a real problem.

In brief
  • Most adults need only about 150–250 kcal a day. Weigh food, don’t scoop it.
  • Aim for a body condition score of 4–5 out of 9: ribs easy to feel, a visible waist.
  • Clip the lead to a harness, not a collar.
  • Brush teeth daily. It’s the single most valuable habit.
  • Most Chihuahuas need a coat in a British winter, and shade and water in summer.

01A day in the life

Chihuahuas thrive on routine. A predictable day, with meals, outings, play, rest and a few minutes of care at roughly the same times, helps them feel secure and makes toilet training and alone time easier. Here’s what a good adult day might look like.

A daily care sequenceA horizontal timeline from morning to night: 7am toilet and breakfast, 8am short walk, midday toilet break and puzzle feeder, 4pm play and training, 6pm dinner and walk, 9pm tooth brushing and coat check, 10pm last toilet and bed. 7:00Toilet,breakfast 8:00Short walk,sniffing time 12:30Toilet break,puzzle feeder 16:00Play, 5 minof training 18:00Dinner,evening walk 21:00Teeth, coat& eye check 22:00Last toilet,bed
Illustration. One example routine. Puppies need more frequent meals and toilet breaks; seniors may need a midnight trip outside.

02Feeding and calories

Obesity was among the most commonly recorded conditions in UK Chihuahuas.1 It’s easy to see why: an extra 50 kilocalories a day, a couple of small biscuits, can be a quarter of a Chihuahua’s needs. Extra weight puts strain on knees already prone to luxation, worsens tracheal and heart problems and shortens life.

How much?

Vets estimate a dog’s energy needs from its resting energy requirement (RER), calculated as 70 × body weight in kg0.75, then multiply it by a factor for life stage and activity.2 The estimator below does that sum. Treat the result as a starting point: every dog is different, so adjust it by watching body condition over a few weeks.

Choosing food

  • Choose a food labelled complete for your dog’s life stage (puppy, adult or senior). “Complementary” foods and treats aren’t balanced on their own.
  • Small-breed kibble has smaller pieces and is usually more energy-dense, so portions are smaller.
  • Puppies need three or four meals a day to keep their blood sugar steady; adults do well on two.
  • Weigh portions on kitchen scales. A cup measure can be wrong by 20% or more.
  • Keep treats to 10% of daily calories and take them out of the meal allowance on training days.
  • Change diets gradually, over seven to ten days, to avoid stomach upsets.

03Body condition, not the scale

Because Chihuahuas vary so much in frame, weight alone tells you little. Vets use a body condition score (BCS), usually on a 9-point scale from the World Small Animal Veterinary Association, where 4–5 is ideal.3 Check once a fortnight, and do it by feel as much as by eye, especially with a long coat.

Body condition seen from aboveThree top-down outlines of a small dog. Too thin: a sharp, deep waist with visible ribs and hip bones. Ideal: a gentle waist behind the ribs. Overweight: no waist, rounded sides. Too thin · 1–3 ribs, spine and hips visible Ideal · 4–5 ribs easy to feel, clear waist Overweight · 6–9 no waist, ribs hard to feel
Illustration. Run your flat hands along the ribs. At an ideal score you can feel them easily under a thin layer of fat, like the back of your hand. If they feel like your knuckles, the dog is too thin; like your palm, too heavy.

If your dog is overweight, ask your vet for a weight-loss plan: in small dogs a safe rate of loss is slow, and crash dieting a toy breed can be dangerous. If your dog is too thin despite eating well, see your vet, as dental pain, parasites and other illness can all cause weight loss.

04Exercise and walks

A healthy adult Chihuahua usually enjoys two outings a day, often 20 to 30 minutes each, plus play at home. Some will happily walk much further. What matters more than distance is variety: new smells, safe surfaces and the chance to explore on their own four feet.

  • Use a harness for the lead. Chihuahuas are prone to tracheal collapse, where the rings of the windpipe weaken, and pulling on a collar can trigger coughing and damage. Choose a Y-shaped harness that leaves the shoulders free. Keep a light collar on for the ID tag the law requires (see collar and tag).
  • Puppies need short, gentle outings and lots of rest. Avoid long walks, repeated stairs and jumping from height while their bones and joints develop.
  • Carry when it’s safer: crowds, busy pavements, escalators, encounters with unfamiliar large dogs. Otherwise, let them walk.
  • Watch the extendable lead. It gives a small dog freedom, but it makes it hard to reel them in quickly if a large dog approaches, and the cord can injure.
  • Large dogs at the park. Even friendly play from a big dog can break a Chihuahua’s leg. Choose quieter times and places, and don’t be shy about asking other owners to recall their dogs.

05Enrichment: a busy mind

Chihuahuas are clever and curious. Mental work tires them as much as walking does and helps prevent boredom barking. Try:

  • Food puzzles: a snuffle mat, a small puzzle feeder, or kibble wrapped in a towel. Use part of the daily food allowance.
  • Scent games: hide treats around a room and say “find it”. Gentle, low-impact and absorbing.
  • Trick training: spin, paw, touch, settle on a mat. Five minutes a day builds confidence and your bond.
  • Sniff walks: a slow outing where the dog chooses where to go and sniffs as long as it likes.
  • Burrowing and nesting: a pile of blankets to dig into satisfies a strong natural urge.

06Coat, nails and ears

Coat

Smooth coats need a weekly going-over with a rubber mitt or soft bristle brush. Long coats need brushing two or three times a week, paying attention to the feathering behind the ears, armpits and back legs, where tangles form. Both coats shed, more so in spring and autumn.

Bath only when needed, perhaps every month or two, with a gentle dog shampoo and lukewarm water. Dry thoroughly and keep them warm until completely dry; small dogs chill fast when wet.

Nails

Chihuahuas often don’t wear their nails down on walks, and overgrown nails were among the conditions commonly recorded in the VetCompass study.1 Long nails change how a dog stands and can curl into the pads. Trim little and often, every two to four weeks, with small clippers, avoiding the pink quick. Don’t forget the dewclaws. If you’re unsure, your vet nurse or groomer can show you, or do it for you.

Ears

Large, upright ears are usually healthy and well ventilated. Check them weekly: they should be pale pink, clean and odour-free. Wipe the visible part with a cotton pad if needed, but never push anything into the canal. Head shaking, scratching, redness, smell or discharge mean a vet visit.

07Eyes and tear stains

Chihuahuas have large, prominent eyes and fairly shallow eye sockets, which makes them more exposed to injury and irritation. Many light-coated Chihuahuas also develop reddish-brown tear stains below the eyes, caused when tears overflow onto the fur and pigments in the tears discolour it.

Managing tear stains

  • Wipe under each eye once or twice a day with a cotton pad dampened with cooled boiled water, using a fresh pad for each eye.
  • Keep the hair around the eyes short or trimmed by a groomer, so it doesn’t poke the eye or wick tears.
  • Dry the area afterwards. Damp fur encourages yeast and bacteria, which deepen staining.
  • Avoid products containing antibiotics or unregulated “tear stain” supplements unless your vet recommends them.

Some overflow is normal for the breed. A sudden increase in tearing, a red or cloudy eye, squinting or rubbing at the eye needs a vet the same day: corneal ulcers can worsen quickly in prominent-eyed dogs.

08Brushing teeth: the most valuable habit

Dental disease was the most commonly recorded condition in UK Chihuahuas, and retained baby teeth were also common.1 Daily brushing is the most effective way to slow plaque and tartar, and it takes about a minute once your dog is used to it.

  1. Days 1–3: let your dog lick a little dog toothpaste from your finger. Never use human toothpaste, which may contain xylitol or fluoride.
  2. Days 4–7: gently lift the lip and rub the paste along the outer surfaces of the teeth with your finger. Treat and praise.
  3. Week 2: introduce a finger brush or a very small, soft toothbrush. Brush the outer surfaces of a few teeth, in small circles along the gumline.
  4. Week 3 onwards: build up to all the outer surfaces, especially the back teeth. The inner surfaces matter less, as the tongue cleans them.

Keep sessions short and positive, and stop before your dog has had enough. Dental chews and water additives help a little, but don’t replace brushing. Bad breath, red gums, dropping food, chewing on one side or pawing at the mouth are signs of dental pain.

09Warmth and cooling

Small dogs have a lot of skin surface for their body volume, so they lose heat quickly in the cold and can also overheat. A Chihuahua that shivers outdoors is usually genuinely cold.

In winter

  • Coats are practical, not fashion. Many Chihuahuas, especially smooth coats, seniors and very small dogs, need a coat for walks in a British winter, and on wet or windy days at other times of year. A well-fitted coat should cover the back and chest without rubbing under the front legs.
  • Keep walks shorter in very cold weather and dry your dog off afterwards.
  • Wipe paws after walking on gritted pavements: salt irritates pads and is harmful if licked.
  • At home, keep the bed out of draughts and give them blankets to burrow into. Be careful with heat pads, which must be designed for pets.
  • Hypothermia signs include violent shivering, then lethargy, weakness and cold ears and feet. Warm the dog gently in blankets and call your vet.

In summer

  • Walk early in the morning and late in the evening. Hold the back of your hand on the pavement for five seconds: if it’s too hot for you, it’s too hot for paws.
  • Always carry water and give access to shade at home.
  • Never leave a dog in a car, conservatory or caravan on a warm day, even for a few minutes.
  • Overweight and older dogs and those with heart or airway problems are at greater risk of heatstroke.

Heatstroke is an emergency

Heavy panting, drooling, a bright red or dark tongue, weakness, wobbliness, vomiting or collapse. Move the dog somewhere cool, start cooling with cool (not ice-cold) water, and phone your vet straight away. Keep cooling on the way.

Sources

  1. O’Neill, D.G. et al. (2020), VetCompass Chihuahua study, BMC Veterinary Research 16:42.
  2. WSAVA Global Nutrition Committee, Nutritional Assessment Guidelines and calorie-calculation resources; RER formula 70 × BW(kg)0.75.
  3. WSAVA, Body Condition Score chart for dogs (9-point scale).
  4. PDSA and RSPCA guidance on dogs in hot weather and dog coats.

Reviewed 7 November 2026.